Handleiding

On this page you will find all the information to apply a floor coating yourself.

Important information for coating

  • Processing temperature: minimum 15°C, maximum 30°C (High temperatures shorten the processing time)
  • Substrate temperature: minimum 10°C and at least 3°C above the dew point.
  • Maximum Relative Humidity (R.H.): 75% during application and curing.
  • Cement- and gypsum-bound substrates must be at least 28 days old. Cement-bound substrates must not contain more than 4% residual moisture. Gypsum-bound substrates must not contain more than 1% residual moisture. Also consider your own safety: it is necessary to take the measures applicable to the processing of plastics.

Direct skin and eye contact should be avoided by using, for example, gloves and safety goggles. When using two-component products, good ventilation is recommended. Consult the Safety Data Sheets for other precautions, storage and waste disposal.

Preparation

  1. Allow the materials to acclimatize sufficiently in the room
  2. Ensure that the surface is clean, dry and free from dirt, grease and dust.
  3. If necessary, degrease the surface with a suitable degreasing agent and allow it to dry.
  4. If needed, use abrasives to sand the surface for better adhesion.
  5. Remove dust from the floor.
  6. If necessary, tape off edges and areas that should not be covered.
  7. Perform (minor) repairs if necessary.
  8. Pre-treat absorbent surfaces with a primer/primer coat.

Please note! Depending on your surface, you may need to take some additional preparations. Click the button below to look up your surface.

Substrate pretreatment

Below you can find information about the different subfloors on which you can apply our coating.

General:

  • Check for cracks, holes, contaminants, and other defects that may affect adhesion.
  • Remove dust, dirt, oil, grease, rust, old paint layers and other contaminants from the surface, and when necessary use a degreaser (e.g., St. Marc or Dasty) to clean the floor. Always rinse afterwards with clean tap water.
  • Fill cracks, holes and other damage with suitable filler materials (do not use silicone).
  • Sand the surface if necessary to create roughness for better adhesion.
  • Ensure the surface is as dry as possible and free of dust before the floor system is applied.
  • The use of a primer can always improve adhesion; it is therefore never wrong to apply the primer before the coating layer is applied.

General adhesion check:
Does the coating adhere to my floor? This is usually easy to check by pouring a small cup of water onto the floor. If the water is absorbed into the substrate, the coating will do the same later. If the water sits on top of the floor and is slow to soak in, an (additional) pre-treatment is probably necessary.

Concrete: If a curing compound was used during curing, the floor must be diamond-ground; this is easy to check by using the adhesion check. If water is readily absorbed into the substrate, it is always recommended to roughen the floor by grinding — this can be done industrially, but a grit of 60–80 is often sufficient to open the cement skin.

Sand-cement screed: A commonly used finish floor in domestic situations such as garages, but also for example after installing underfloor heating. Where possible, always roughen the floor with grit 60–80–100. Use the primer to remove the substrate's suction.

Anhydrite: The most important thing for an anhydrite floor finish is that the floor contains little to no residual moisture (max. 1%). In addition, you must always sand an anhydrite floor finish. Roughen the floor intensively with grit 60–80–100.

Egaline: There are many types of Egaline; as a rule, the Egaline must no longer be wet. Roughen the floor with grit 60–80–100 and use the primer.

Tiles: With tiles it is important to degrease them very well; also always use a primer to optimize adhesion.

Hardstone/Natural stone: The same applies as for tiles: degrease well and use a primer.

Linoleum: Applying a coating over linoleum (or, for example, a PVC substrate) is possible, but somewhat more difficult and riskier. It must be degreased and sanded extremely well with grit 80–100–120 to create adhesion; also always use the primer to strengthen the bonding bridge.

Wood: The coating system is excellent for use on a wooden substrate. Always sand the wood with grit 80–100–120 and use the primer to encapsulate the fibres and remove suction. If the wooden floor is lacquered or oiled, sand and degrease extra well.

Plaster (walls): The coating can be applied vertically to (plastered) walls. Ensure the moisture is out and apply the primer to promote adhesion.

Other substrates: If your project includes another substrate such as metal, asphalt or for example polyester, please contact us to explain your project; our advisors may be able to assist you further with the appropriate pretreatment or primer.

Supplies

  • 2K coating
  • Optional: primer and/or lacquer
  • Mixing spiral (on a drill)
  • Nylon floor rollers + holder
  • Brushes
  • Telescopic pole (optional)
  • Sanding materials (depending on surface)
  • Degreaser (if necessary)
  • Masking tape for taping off edges (if necessary)
  • Protective equipment (gloves/safety goggles)
  • Vacuum cleaner

quantities

Stir the coating component well first until a homogeneous mass is obtained, then pour component B into component A. Mix for 1 minute with a mixing spiral in a drill until a homogeneous mass is formed. Topping up: pour a portion of the mixed product briefly into the can of the B-component, stir through and pour it back into the A-component. Mix the whole batch again for one minute with the mixing spiral.

Application

  1. Use a brush for edges and hard-to-reach areas.
  2. Apply the epoxy coating evenly with a 2K nylon floor roller. Work in sections to ensure the coating is distributed evenly.
  3. Avoid excessive buildup of the coating and roll well and straight afterwards.

Processing time: approx. 45 minutes.

Consumption: Use approx. 200 grams per m2 per coat

drugs

  1. Allow the first coat of epoxy to fully dry before applying a subsequent coat.
  2. Ventilate the area well during the drying process.

Drying times depend on temperature and humidity: At 23°C and a maximum humidity of 50%: dust-dry after approx. 3 hours, walk-on and recoatable after approx. 12 hours. Curing can be accelerated by forced ventilation and heating. Optimal chemical resistance is achieved after 7 days of curing. Always apply subsequent coats within 48 hours.

Optional next step: Apply protective lacquer
Pour the lacquer into a separate bucket (this is supplied) and stir it thoroughly at low speed with the mixing spiral. Then apply the lacquer directly onto the Epoxy floor coating or from a paint tray onto the Epoxy floor coating. Spread evenly and roll well in straight strokes. When applying the lacquer, always use a new roller and/or brush. Note: the lacquer may initially appear slightly cloudy or milky; it will become transparent as it dries.

Waste processing

If you have a small amount of mixed material left in the can, allow it to harden in the can. Once hardened, the containers can simply be disposed of with the bulky waste. Leftover liquids should be taken to the household recycling centre and can (as with, for example, paint residues) be handed in at the household hazardous waste collection point. Remaining material can be stored frost-free and is usable for approximately 12 months.